At a glance

FinishLookWhat changes first, and whereCare and repair
Brass, unlacquered (a living finish)Warm yellow that darkens and takes hand marks; no two fittings age alikeColour, first at switches, joints and anywhere hands landDust and mild cleaning. Polishing is abrasive and removes some metal; wax is an alternative (conservation body).
Brass, lacqueredHolds the polish while the film is intact; the film always alters the look a littleThe film, where it is handled. Heat limit near the lamp: none found, so askStrip and recoat; conservators call lacquer hard to remove. Solvent sprays strip it.
Brass plate on another metalLooks like brass: a thin layer on steel or another baseWear-through shows the base, at edges and touch pointsRe-plating is a workshop job, not a site repair.
Aged or antique brass, bronzeDark brown to black with bright highlights: a surface treatment, then sealed or waxedThe dark layer rubs back to bright metal at edges and touch pointsFresh patina on site is described as very difficult: match from the same batch.
Nickel or chrome plateNickel: silver-grey, polished, satin or brushed. Chrome: bright blue-white, usually over nickelWear-through shows the nickel or base beneath. Chromium is a very thin film (reported 0.05 to 0.5 micrometres)Mild soap and a soft cloth, no abrasives. Thickness class: BS EN ISO 1456 (not read).
PVD on stainless or a plated baseBrass, bronze, black and rose tones in a hard thin filmDamage cannot be repaired on site; the base finish shows throughMild detergent and a soft cloth (see the PVD sheet).

Basis: a conservation body note, one lacquer maker's data sheet and our sheets on PVD, plating and lacquer. No source gives a life in years. Finish names vary: approve a physical sample.

Four ways a luminaire stresses its finish

A table leg is handled, wiped and occasionally knocked. A luminaire is all of that, plus four stresses of its own. The drawing marks them on a wall light; a chandelier arm or a pendant canopy has the same zones in different places.

  • Heat (1). The lamp holder and the base of the shade run warmer than the rest of the fitting. One lacquer maker’s data sheet types its product as a thermoplastic acrylic, a plastic that softens when heated, and we found no service temperature in it. No source we read gives a heat limit for any decorative finish. Ask the partner workshop for the surface temperature at the lamp holder with the specified lamp and driver, and for the finish’s rated limit.
  • Touch (2). Switches, pull cords, arm joints and shade rims are held many times a day. The Canadian Conservation Institute, writing about brass and copper, lists grease, dust and fingerprints as sources of corrosion and says gloves stop the moisture, salts and oils of the fingers reaching freshly cleaned metal. It calls lacquering “a tacit acceptance of a failure in other areas of protection”, handling among them. In a hotel the hands cannot be removed, so the finish at the touch points is the decision.
  • Damp (3). In a bathroom the finish meets steam, splashes and sprays, and the fitting’s IP rating and base metal matter more than the surface. Some brasses lose zinc in water: see brass alloys explained. On a plated part, damp reaches the base wherever the plating is thin or broken.
  • Cleaning (4). Housekeeping cloths and sprays pass over the tops of arms and shades. One lacquer data sheet lists ketone solvents such as acetone, and xylene and toluene, among the ways to strip its lacquer, so a solvent spray is not a cleaner for lacquered brass. The conservation note adds that polishing is abrasive and removes tarnish and some surface metal. See cleaning and maintaining metal finishes.
Where a wall light's metal finish is stressedSide view of a wall light on a wall: backplate, a horizontal arm with a pivot joint, an upturned stem, a lamp holder, a candle lamp and a shade, with a pull cord and bangle hanging from the shade and a small switch on the backplate. Four zones are marked. 1 heat, around the lamp holder and the base of the shade. 2 touch, at the arm joint, the pull-cord bangle and the switch. 3 damp, at the lower edge of the backplate where it meets the wall, in a bathroom. 4 cleaning, along the top of the arm, where dust collects and cloths and sprays pass. A key at the right says what to ask for each zone.1222341HeatAround the lamp holder and shade ring.Ask for the finish's rated temperature.2TouchArm joint, pull-cord bangle, switch.Ask what wears first and who can repair it.3DampBackplate edge and wall seam, in a bathroom.Ask the IP rating and the base metal.4CleaningTop of the arm and shade: dust, cloths, sprays.Ask for a care sheet, named by finish.
A wall light with its four stress zones: heat, touch, damp and cleaning. Original drawing by Make Bespoke Studio; schematic.

What is under the finish

Every plated or coated finish is a stack: a base metal, sometimes an undercoat, a thin finish and often a clear seal. What sits under the top layer decides what you see when it wears and whether it can be put right. The drawing shows six systems without thicknesses, because the films are far thinner than the base and none can be read off a finish name. The figures, with their gaps, are on the plating and coating thickness sheet.

  • Solid metal has nothing to wear through: the same metal shows all the way down, and re-polishing removes some of it.
  • Plated or coated parts show the layer beneath at edges and touch points. Ask what the base metal is, whether there is a nickel layer, and the certified minimum thickness.
  • PVD follows the surface beneath exactly, so the base finish decides the look, and a damaged area cannot be touched up on site: see PVD coatings explained.
  • Earthing. Where a fitting relies on its metalwork for the earth connection, a coating or lacquer can insulate. Ask the workshop how the finish is removed or bridged at earth points. The luminaire standard, BS EN 60598-1, governs it and was not read.
Six metal finish systems drawn as layers, not to scaleSix columns, each a stack of layers seen in section, not to scale because the films are far thinner than the base. Unlacquered brass: brass all through. Lacquered brass: brass with a clear lacquer film. Nickel and chromium on brass: brass, a nickel layer, a thin chromium layer. Brass plate on steel: steel, a brass layer, usually a lacquer film. PVD on stainless steel: stainless steel and a very thin hard film. Aged brass, sealed: brass, a darkened surface layer, and a lacquer or wax seal. Under each stack a line says what shows when the top layer wears through.UnlacqueredbrassBrassSame metal all through;it marks and darkensLacqueredbrassLacquerBrassBare brass showswhere the film failsNickel and chromeon brassChromeNickelBrassNickel, then brass,shows when wornBrass plateon steelLacquerBrassSteelSteel shows through:rust risk if dampPVDon stainlessPVD filmStainlessFilm follows the base;no repair on siteAged brass,sealedSealDark layerBrassDark layer rubs backto bright brassLayers are far thinner than the base and are not drawn to scale. Thicknesses are on the plating and coating sheet.What sits under the top layer decides what you see when it wears.
Six finish systems as layers, not to scale. Original drawing by Make Bespoke Studio; schematic, with no thicknesses.

How each finish ages, and what the sources say

  • Unlacquered brass and bronze. Some tarnish is stable: the conservation note says many items acquire a stable tarnish in use. Polishing is an abrasive operation that removes some surface metal, and repeated polishing loses surface detail. A wax coat gives some protection against the environment and handling and comes off with mineral spirits. This is a living finish: the client should choose it knowingly, and the operator should be told. See lacquered vs unlacquered brass and copper.
  • Lacquered brass. The conservation note says no matter how well lacquer is applied it always alters the look, and that it is difficult to remove. One lacquer data sheet asks for a dry film of 1.0 to 1.5 mils (about 25 to 38 micrometres) built in thin coats, application within an hour of cleaning to a dry surface or clouding occurs, and 2 to 3 days minimum cure before exposure, 7 recommended. A part lacquered in a damp workshop, or re-lacquered on site, may not match the factory film. We found no independent test of how long lacquer lasts under hotel handling.
  • Nickel and chrome. A bright nickel and chromium plate is a thin chromium film over a nickel layer on the base metal. When it wears, the nickel or the base shows. The minimum thickness depends on the service condition class in BS EN ISO 1456, which we did not read: ask for the class and the certified minimum.
  • Aged or antique brass and bronze. The colour is a surface treatment, applied chemically or relieved by hand so that highlights show where wear would put them, then sealed or waxed. Copper alloys keep ageing under the seal. A fresh patina applied on site is described by fabricators as extremely difficult, so spares and later additions need the same batch. See patination of brass, bronze, copper and steel.
  • PVD. A very thin, hard film that follows the surface beneath. It is described as much more scratch resistant than electrochemical colouring, and damage to it cannot be repaired.

No finish here has a life in years that we can quote. How long a finish lasts depends on the environment, the handling and the maintenance, and none of the sources we read gives independent figures for a hotel luminaire. Treat any quoted number of years as a guess.

Matching, pairing and the lamp

  • Finish names are not standards. ‘Antique brass’, ‘satin nickel’ and ‘bronze’ mean different things at different finishers. Approve a physical sample, signed and dated, and match the luminaire to the door furniture, taps and handrails against that sample, not against a name. See ironmongery finish codes and sample approval and batch variation.
  • Spares and later additions come from another batch. Ask for the colour tolerance between batches in writing, and order spare touch-point parts (switch plates, pull-cord bangles) with the first batch.
  • View the sample under the specified lamp, at full output and at the dimmed levels it will run at. Colour temperature and dimming change how a warm metal reads, and a dim-to-warm source shifts as it dims; we found no source that quantifies the effect on a finish. See colour temperature by space.
  • Put the finish beside the glass. A brass or nickel frame reads against the glass colour next to it: see Murano glass colour.

What to ask the partner workshop

  • Base metal and alloy for each part (see brass alloys explained).
  • Finishing system, each layer in order, its certified minimum thickness in micrometres and the standard it is measured to.
  • Corrosion or abrasion test evidence at the level claimed, named and dated, and the colour tolerance between batches.
  • Surface temperature at the lamp holder with the specified lamp and driver, and the finish’s rated limit.
  • How the finish is removed or bridged at earth connection points, where metalwork carries the earth.
  • The repair route for each finish: re-lacquer, re-plate or replace the part, and whether it is a site or a workshop job.
  • A care sheet for each finish, named by finish, for the handover file.

Specification wording

Paste into your schedule or specification and replace anything in [square brackets] with your own figures. Wording is a starting point: your specification governs.

Finish system
Fitting [ref]: base metal [solid brass CW508L / mild steel / stainless steel 316]. Finish [unlacquered brass / lacquered brass / satin nickel plate / PVD [colour] on [stainless steel 316] / antique brass, chemically darkened then [waxed / lacquered]]. Each layer in order with its certified minimum thickness [ ] micrometres, measured to [standard], stated on the shop drawing. A finish name alone is not accepted.
Sample and tolerance
Finish approved on physical sample [ref, date, signed], viewed under the specified lamp [CCT, CRI] at [full and 30] per cent output beside the glass sample [ref]. Production within the approved range; spares and later orders batch-matched, with the colour tolerance between batches stated in writing.
Heat, damp and earth
Finish suitable for the surface temperature at the lamp holder and shade ring of [ ] degrees C (workshop to state it for the specified lamp and driver, with the finish's rated limit) and for IP rating [ ] in [zone]. Where metalwork carries the earth, the finish is removed or bridged at earth points; the workshop confirms how.
Care, spares and repair
Care sheet for each finish, named by finish. Living finish accepted by [client]: the fitting will change colour with handling and time, as intended. [ ] sets of touch-point parts in the same batch. Repair route per finish [re-lacquer / re-plate / replace part; site or workshop] stated by the workshop.

Terms used on this page

Living finish
A metal finish left unsealed so that it changes colour with handling and time, as against a lacquered finish that is sealed to slow that change.
PVD finish
A very thin, hard coloured film deposited on metal in a vacuum chamber. It follows the surface beneath and cannot be repaired on site.

All lighting terms

Standards and sources

Questions we are asked

Is lacquered or unlacquered brass better on a light fitting?

Neither: they are different decisions. Lacquer slows tarnish and holds the polished look while the film is intact, but it always alters the look a little, can wear where it is handled and is hard to remove. Unlacquered brass changes with handling and time, which can be the point. Where hands land, at switches and joints, either needs a plan. Write the client's choice into the specification and give the operator a care sheet.

How long does a metal finish last on a light fitting?

We found no independent test that says. It depends on the environment, the handling and the maintenance. Be wary of any guarantee quoted in years; ask for the finishing system, the certified minimum thickness and the repair route instead.

Can PVD be applied to brass?

One coating house's datasheet lists stainless steel and titanium as taking PVD directly, and brass, aluminium, zinc die-cast and ABS as needing a nickel and chrome plating first. See the PVD sheet. Damage to a PVD finish cannot be repaired on site.

Is nickel or chrome better in a bathroom?

No source we read ranks them. In a bathroom the fitting's IP rating and its base metal matter more than the surface, and both finishes are thin plated layers that show the metal beneath when worn. Ask for the plating class and certified minimum thickness, and have the electrical designer confirm the zone.

How do I match a light fitting to the door handles and taps?

Finish names differ between finishers, so match by physical sample, not by name: approve one sample, signed and dated, and hold every supplier to it. Ask each for the colour tolerance between batches and order spares in the first batch.

Does the lamp change how brass or bronze looks?

It can. Colour temperature and dimming change how a warm metal reads, so view the sample under the specified lamp at the levels it will run at. We found no source that quantifies the effect.

Download the factsheet

A two-page A4 PDF with the finish comparison, the stress-zone drawing, the layer stacks and wording to paste in, to keep with your project file.

Factsheet TL-LIG-16 v1.0 (PDF)